Quick khlong boat ride

We decided to start trying to figure out where you can go on the system of khlong boats which travel quickly down a khlong (canal) through central Bangkok. This mode of transportation is primarily used by locals; you have to be ready to hop on and off the boats very quickly so as not to slow down their rapid progress. I had been on these boats one time but have not quite determined where you can go. If we can master these, we can travel quickly from our place to spots that can take as much as an hour by other modes of travel. Blue tarps are pulled up along the sides of the boats as they travel to reduce splashing of the dirty khlong water onto the passengers - great idea!  Riders get a view of life for the residents who live along the canal.

This pier is less than 1 km from our apartment

This ride took us to a very busy shopping area.

Pedestrian and auto traffic was heavy. All we needed was a pair of headphones but that entailed moving through a 5 story electronics shopping center full of booth after booth of vendors. Computer parts, cameras, DVD's, tools and other electronics were presented with no order we could discern. But we did find what we were looking for.
   In the near future, we will take the boats in another direction to see just how far we can go and then map out the possibilities for travel.

   We ended the day with a quick visit to a restaurant near our house featuring 4 Thai guys who do remarkable covers of the Beatles.

Pattaya - Been there, done that.....

   We had a long weekend due to the Chulalongkorn Day, commemorating the rule of Rama V, so we decided to take a trip within easy reach of Bangkok. Pattaya is a beach resort less than 2 hours drive from the capital. We arranged details of the trip then started researching Pattaya. After a bit of reading, we realized that Pattaya was not going to be our cup of tea,  but decided to proceed with the trip to escape the heat and bustle of Bangkok. Pattaya used to be a quiet little coastal town; then, during the Vietnam war, it became an R&R spot for U.S. soldiers. Despite efforts to clean up its image, the wildness of the town remains and there is much development and encroachment by Russian investors. 
     As we drove through the town to reach our hotel, there was little appealing to be seen so we decided to  stay out of  the main area of town and enjoy the views and relaxation at the Birds and Bees Resort. This is run by the Population and Community Development Association, the receiver of $1 million from the Gates Foundation for its effective campaign to reduce population growth in Thailand. They run hotels and restaurants in many areas of Thailand, employing many from the rural north of Thailand. All of their facilities have a very upbeat, tropical feel with humorous, sometimes acerbic,  political comments.

Thai resort thoughts.

  We have never spent a vacation relaxing poolside at our hotel but that was our primary activity. We did venture out to a temple on a hillside above Pattaya. It was within walking distance from the hotel, albeit a hot, uphill hike. I have a feeling that the temple was build primarily as a draw for tourists; vendors were selling small bamboo cages full of little birds. The selling point was that freeing the birds in the area of the temple would bring one good luck.  We did not bite!     Temple visitors leave many different offerings at different spots of the temples; some consist of food and personal items for the monks, their sole source of food. Some are figurines of gods, goddesses or animals.  Incense is burned in remembrance of deceased family members; flowers are left in front of statues. Gold leaf is purchased to rub onto statues of Buddha. Temples are vibrant and sensory scenes.

Thai Cooking Classes at May Kaidee's in Bangkok

Thai Som Tom Salad

  Tom and I spent one Saturday morning at May Kaidee's cooking school to get some tips on the finer points of cooking some of our favorite dishes. After four hours, we were so stuffed we had to start packing the food in a to-go bag instead of our stomachs. We made at least 12 dishes, alongside a British couple whose sons had arranged their visit to the cooking school. Our teacher was a vivacious Thai woman from northern Thailand (Issan) where the primary language is Laotian; she was very fluent in English and kept us on task as we moved from one dish to another. She gave us a compact May Kaidee cookbook, which we have now used many times. I have been able to recreate several of the dishes but may have to visit the cooking class again to gain the nuances of a few dishes.  One of our favorite recipes is one of the easiest: som tam salad pictured above. Green beans, tomatoes, chilies, garlic, peanuts and lime juice are pounded in a mortar; then shredded green papaya is added for a few more poundings of the pestle.
    We learned to make soup in 3 versions, all based on the same combination of ingredients. Here is my version at our wok (bought in 1975 on Prince Avenue in Athens Georgia):

Small moments of culture shock

    Having been in Bangkok now just shy of 2 months, there are still things that surprise me as we wander the city and settle in our apartment. I have to remember NOT to plug in any appliance we brought from the U.S. without first plugging it into a transformer we bought with us; I find myself walking down narrow streetways with no sidewalks, watching where I put my feet on the uneven roads, while also keeping an eye out for the motorcycle taxis that dart in and out among the cars and taxis. Somehow, everyone seems to be very aware of each other and there is almost a ballet of vehicles as one gives way to another and many columns of drivers gracefully merge into one or two lanes without so much as a honk of the horn, quite different than in India. At any cinema, the entire audience rises from incredibly plush seats and stands for the "King's Anthem" which is played before each movie.
     Visiting the open air markets to purchase fruits and vegetables is a sensory experience of colors, sounds and smells, some good, some bad. I don't know that I will ever get used to the overpowering odor of dried fish and shrimp products found at all of the markets. But the availability of a plethora of fruits and vegetables is worth learning to tolerate any discomfort. Today's visit to the market filled our arms with bag after bag of mini corn, pears, mangoes, green papaya for som tam salad (spicy, spicy!), mangosteens, baby corns, tiny sweet bananas, eggs, and peanuts, all for about the equivalent of $20.00.
     Entering a bathroom at the subway station and finding the sign below is today's "you're not in New Orleans anymore" moment. I don't think I will stand on any toilet seats no matter how long we live here!

A Canadian, a Singaporean and an American were walking in the park.........

   

This morning, rather than run on the treadmill in the apartment gym for an hour or so, looking out at the pool the entire time, I decided to go to a nearby park for an early morning walk/run; I was joined by two other residents (see above) in the apartment building who were  interested in a change of scenery.

     In the park were several Tai Chi groups;  one, led by a young man, had a bit more hip movement than I have seen before in Tai Chi;  some were moving VEEEERY slowly;  most participants were dressed in sweats, despite the warm temperatures. The participants were of all ages and looked very peaceful. Supposedly, anyone can join in so maybe I will try it one day.

   At 8:00 am sharp, a whistle blows and everyone comes to a standstill to listen a recording of the King's Anthem; this song plays all over the city and anyone on the streets is expected to  honor the King, with no smart-aleck remarks allowed.  

   Street vendors were out in full gear, cooking breakfast dishes which look much like lunch dishes. It was nice to be out in the fresh air where there was a hint of coolness at the beginning of the outing, but which had dissipated well before we were headed back. There are many dogs roaming the streets here and there were a few in the park; they don't look emaciated so they are finding food somewhere, but I would not try to make friends with them as rabies can be a problem in these soi dogs.

    I think an excursion to one of the parks should become part of my weekly routine; it was nice to observe part of the life of the city before the streets are clogged thoroughly with taxis, motorcycles and cars. 

   Tomorrow, Tom has consented to attending a Thai vegetarian cooking class with me; we will get a tour of a nearby vegetable market and  learn the names of some of the unique products available. I am intrigued by tiny eggplants about the size of grapes. I would love to know how to use those in a curry or soup. I imagine we will get some interesting photos there;  if so, I will post some. I think there is some singing and dancing involved!

    On Sunday we will stick close to the apartment, except for keeping an appointment we have for more inoculations. The red shirts have a demonstration planned in Bangkok and in Chang Mai and it is probably advisable to keep our distance. 

   We are thoroughly enjoying the many ethnic foods available and have not tired of Thai food at all. But I do have to admit, that the brocolli-potato soup and spoonbread I have made for dinner tonight are very appealing. 

Orchid plants from flower market - local growers gather to sell their plants.

Trip to Maeklong Market - 9/5/10

Market goodies

    We spent Sunday on a day trip with a friend to the Maeklong market about 70 km from Bangkok. To get there we took the BTS (rapid transit in Bangkok) to the easternmost station, found the non-rapid train station nearby, rode that train for about 45 minutes to Malachai where we caught a ferry across the river to the next train station and reached Maeklong after another hour on the train. Almost all of the train passengers were Thais going to the markets along the way; some returned with goods for their restaurants or for families, filling the aisles in places on the trip home. We returned home by the same methods of transportation. We calculated that we spent the equivalent of $2.50 for our transportation on this trip. Lunch costs less than $5.00 for the three of us so this all day trip was quite a bargain and an interesting glimpse into everyday life for many Thais.
    Our traveling companion is fairly fluent in Thai and we are inspired to get our lessons set up. Most Thais are delighted if you try to communicate with even a trace of skill at the language and having some fluency changes the experiences during trips like this. Just knowing terms like "how much", "too much", and restaurant terms makes interactions much easier.
      The Maeklong market sits ON the railway tracks; the train passes 8 times a day, and when it does,  the vendors rapidly move or roll their goods out of the way, but just barely.  Large piles of vegetables are reduced in height by picking off the topmost layers, and the train passes over the piles, with a minimum of clearance. Other vendors offer their goods from carts on wheels and roll out of the way and the overlying canopies are pulled back to allow the train to pass. It is amazing sight of efficiency and cooperation.
    We arrived around 11:30 am and wanted to experience the flurry of activity when the next train arrived at 2:30 pm so we wandered the town, visiting the temple which was quite active that day.  It is also the best place to find bathroom facilities in almost any town. We  took a short ferry ride across the river  to check out a building on the other side that looked rather regal. We thought it might be a government building or a small hotel but it was a private residence and a Thai movie was being shot there that day.
   At the bottom of this post is a link to some photos from the day. There are a couple of videos from the train but the best video is the last posted photo and  is of the market being moved, the train passing through and then the market being put back in place. You may have to push play, then pause to let it download to view this video.

 http://picasaweb.google.com/renhud/TripToMaeklongMarket090510?authkey=Gv1sRgCNTjwYT-9YrEEQ#

The train track and the market share tight quarters.

 

Small steps to acclimation

Well, my standards for a successful day in Bangkok are on the rise after a 2 week period of acclimation; however, those standards have a long way to go before I can say I have accomplished much. It is quite an adjustment to having so much free time after so long without much but I am coping!!!

Today, after tracking down the American Women's club on my own (it will offer a chance to get involved in community service here) I finally dared step into an establishment offering pedicures, among many other services; we have passed it many times but I needed to master  (or possibly butcher) a few words in Thai to be sure I could communicate on a basic level. Plus, to get to the TenTen spa, I had to walk through a bakery/restaurant so there was another stumbling block. What if they asked me what I wanted? I don't know how to say "nothing" yet. 

Anyway, back to the pedicure. I am glad I finally made it. I tend to resist the inclination to pamper myself but after 2 weeks of walking the streets in my Chaco's on a daily basis, my feet were feeling sore and rough, and looking like they felt that way too. Not only did they speak better English than I speak Thai, I was brought a very strong ginger tea, which was quite refreshing, and a pile of magazines. Now you may think I speak with a heavy Southern accent but here they don't know where I hail from. So the stack of publications included one from each of the following: Germany, France, Thailand and Britain. I, of course, could read only the British gossip mag but I thumbed through the others, and ooh-la-la, does France show plenty in their ads that would not be seen anywhere in the U.S. except behind the counter. 

Anyway, I was pampered plenty and it was a refreshing break from the busy streets. The cost was 500 baht, which is about $16.00.

When I was done, I was energized enough to track down some chocolate chips, the last missing ingredient in my oatmeal cookies - Tom can't wait! Then I stopped at a roadside stand and ordered a Veg Pad Thai to go, shelling out $1.00 for the dish which is quite good, with enough left for lunch tomorrow. 

Now one of my next goals is to be able to post photos on this site. Don't hold your breath.

Bangkok Beginnings

This is my first effort at creating a blog. I intend to use it as a way to record our daily life in Bangkok and also adventures we have in traveling around the area. I may cover more mundane material than many travel blogs, but  we are living here now, not just traveling through and the details of daily life here are different than those in the U.S. It may be more of a diary for me than travelogue for others. I think you can sign up if you want regular updates or you can just revisit this link if the urge hits you to find out what is going on in our lives. I will record some of the events in the two weeks I have been here in later posts but I will jump in with today's events or I may never get started.